SOINTULA AND ALERT BAY

July 5, 2016 (Day 98)

We made a brief stop over back at Port McNeill to over come the Cape Caution South crossing. That one will stay fresh in my mind for a while. While there Wendy and I took the ferry over to Sointula on Malcolm Island. The BC Ferries run like clock work, back and forth to Sointula and Alert Bay. Sointula was settled by the Finnish in 1902. They still run a co-op grocery, a museum, a bakery, motels, etc. It was very interesting to learn about the Finnish culture! I realized how little I know about British Columbia. It was a pleasant relaxing day.

We we there mainly there to get off the boats, visit the market, and walk about.
The do have bicycles you can borrow, but neither of us was ready to work that hard.

One if the more interesting residences.

The Finnish roots are still very strong, the people running the museum
very passionate. This shows some of the instruments used by the band.
Dances were held most Saturday nights. It's hard to imagine the immigrants
and personal belonging and animals crossing the seas in ships at the
turn of the century, unknowing of where they would land and begin anew.

One of the first settlers built this boat building structure, complete with
the means for launching and haul outs. In the museum, there were old
 photos of his family, success and pride of ownership.

This concluded our "buddy boating" Bill and Wendy. They live in Victoria and have to be home sooner or later. We do hope to look them up for a stop in their lovely city. After we bid farewell, John and I went fishing anchoring in Turnbull Cove and tried for halibut at Sullivan Bay. That will be a separate post. While in Sullivan Bay the fridge acted up again, so we went back to Port McNeill to find a solution. While there we took the ferry over to Alert Bay on, Comorant Island. That island has a story all it's own.

Cormorant Island - The Village of Alert Bay

July 13, 2016  (Day 106)

From earliest memory... Cormorant Island has been a traditional home of the ‘Namgis First Nation. From 1870 onward Alert Bay became the dominant trading and service center for residents of scores of near by logging camps and First Nation communities in the North Vancouver Island region. As North Vancouver’s oldest municipality, Alert Bay continues to honor it’s past, while now maintaining a full range of modern services. Today, Cormorant Island is home to a diverse population of 1300 who share a vibrant and unique cultural environment.

Everyone we met was very friendly and full of pride for their community. We started at the visitor center, where we got a brief history, map and handouts explaining the renowed U’mista Cultural Centre, Famed ‘Namgis Big House and the world’s tallest totem (and 23 others). We respected the rules at the burial ground marked by the totems. We learned about “Potlatch” Celebrations of giving and how they use the prized cedar trees for many things. Hope you enjoy the history and photos :-)

Pedestrians boarding the BC Ferry, cars are waiting in line.

Alert Bay

Thunderbird, Man holding Copper, Namxiyalagiyu

British Coat of Arms

First stop was the visitor center, which originally was the fire station.

What is a Totem Pole?

Totem poles are primarily visual statements about the ceremonial privileges and identify of those who erected them. The figures represented on the totem poles are those beings from mythical times who became, or were encountered by, the ancestors of the group that later took them as crests. For instance, some Kwakwaka'wakw families claim the crest of the Thunderbird, who decended from the sky and took his regalia and became their human ancestor. Others claim crests on the basis of encounters their ancestors had with supernatural beings. The erection of a totem pole would be celebrated by a potlatch. At this time, the stories pertaining to the crests they displayed were shown and the rights of the family to claim the privileges were publicly witnessed. Only the pole's owner and carver can accurately describe it's significance. The family records are surprisingly meager, and die with the family. The artists also put hidden meaning of their own in their designs, therefore very personalized. Figures featured on the poles include Eagle, Raven, Frog, Killer Whale, Grizzly Bear, Thunderbird, etc. Alert Bays totems began as early as 1870. There are still 23 Totem Poles at Alert Bay, the highest concentration in the world. Many are now in North American museums and throughout the world. 

The old people believe that nothing lasts forever. When a Totem Pole falls to the earth or something was damaged on it, it has served its purpose and it was time to make a new one. This is why the poles are not maintained or repainted. It is not due to neglect.

Notice the contrast between the newer totems and the older ones behind.
Many families choose to let the years age the totems and even fall to the ground completing the circle of life,
while other families chose to restore and repaint theirs.

Totem on the left, "Haida Mortuary Panel - Raven transforming", to honor the memory of appx 300 Haida who where quarantined to Bones Bay in the peoples Kwakwaka'wakw Territory around 1862, who never made it home due to small pox.

Totem middle front, Kulus, 4 Butterflies, Numas - memorial unveiled during a Potlatch ceremony.

Totem on the right, Dzunukwa, two Max'inux (Killer Whales)

The cemetery over looks the bay.

Obviously, the older Totem Poles.

Thunderbird, Sisiyutl  (carved by 4 men in 2004) is a memorial for their great grandparents.

Giant Halibut - Man

The old Anglo-British fish processing plant. The cannery was the 1st most important building.

The old Net Loft the 2nd most important building.

Can you see the ruins of the plane parked next to the building?

Huge contrasts across the street with the newer, manicured church.

Passer by shelters for the tourism industry.

We passed by this pile of their cherished cedar on the way to the museum.

The U'mista Cultural Centre, more commonly referred to as The Big House.

The meaning of U'mista

In earlier days, people were sometimes taken captive by raiding parties. When they returned to their homes , either through payment of ransom or by retaliatory raid, they were said to have "u'mista". The return of our treasures from distant museums is a form of u'mista.

The museum and gift shop. You are greeted by Guardian Poles - Nulamal and Nan (Bear)
These Guardian Poles are messengers who share the message of Maya'xala.
(Maya'xala means respect for yourself, others and the world around you)
The messengers where traditionally responsible for keeping order in the Big House
and making sure that people behaved with Maya'xala.

We were greeted by this totem pole and figure inside.

This explains harvesting cedar bark for weaving and such.

Examples of the ways they wove and used the cedar bark. Ceremonial cape, necklace and apron once worn.

Ceremonial apron, we were not allowed to take photos of the old masks and other artifacts downstairs.
It is however, truly amazing!

There was a hands on area for the kiddos... I couldn't resist! Suits me well, don't you think?

In the gift shop.

Alert Bay marina.

Killer Whale archway located near the BC Ferry terminal.
The Orca, Killer Whale has a huge mythology. It's mask is recognized by a large,
long head, a elongated large nostrils, round eyes, a large mouth set with teeth and a large dorsal fin. 

Watch for the next post coming up, Broughton Archipelago

HEADING SOUTH / Rivers Inlet

So we are now heading south, still boating with Bill and Wendy on Sea Badger(who caught up with us at Butedale) and enjoyed witnessing the Spirit Bear.. Enroute we also saw more whales. We had decided to continue traveling together, rounding Cape Caution. In order to do that, we had to pay attention to the weather, which was currently shitty. It rains all the time and there is nothing summer about life in the Pacific North West. 
So......there we were, heading south through the Fitz Hugh sound where we decided to spend some time in the Rivers Inlet before rounding Cape Caution. While here we spent time at Duncanby and then to Dawsons Landing and then back to Duncaby in preparation of the Cape Caution crossing. 
The weather forecast called for 1-2 meter swell and minimal wind....So much for weather forcasters, they were wrong again!  The initial plan was if the weather was too bad we would just turn back and wait it out.........Ya right!
We departed at 5AM and within an hour Tracey was pretty sick and would continue to be sick for the next 8 hours. We hit 5-6 meter (Thats 15-20 foot) swells with wind near 25 knots from the south. Lots of surfing and rocking and rolling are all we had to look forward to. This was the first time that the ships bell would sound on its own. Needless to say, not Tracey's favorite voyage.

This old planter box is actually a retired dugout canoe. 

Working fish boats, rafted together.

Sea plane dropping off vacationing fisherman. Duncanby Landing is a fishing camp.

They have a very nice store.. it's the one with the green roof.

I'm not always this relaxed ;-)

posing for the photo op 

someone has their eye on dinner

Pairadice and Sea Badger moored at Dawson's Landing.

We had a great day arriving to Dawson's Landing, the weather in our favor that afternoon. That did not last long. We have learned that the weather reports (if you can get them are often incorrect and/or incomplete.  There are no pictures of the horrible circumstances the weather creates. You are way to busy piloting the vessel and working through it. It is hard to believe the weather was so nice two days before our crossing Cape Caution. AND we've learned...you can't always trust the weather forecast!